Knife + Pen

Time Well Spent

In Uncategorized on April 9, 2010 at 8:46 am

The perfect dish can be found anywhere, from your mother’s dinner table to the most exclusive restaurant. It carries not only certain general universal criteria (taste, combination of flavors, technique) but can also be an intensely personal experience. Looking back through some old photos, I found a picture of the foie gras ganache from Aquavit that has been a standard there for years. It took quite a lot of prep time, but when it came time to service, execution was quick and for some reason this was a key component to the dish tasting exactly as it should. For the cooks, nothing was worse than when Nils Noren, the executive chef started plating the first of 180 covers and began screaming that the ganaches had to be remade during service. A half hour of chaos and the next tester was ready. They looked passable, Nils was happy, which meant service would temporarily fine for the evening, until some other disaster struck.

The ganches in particular are not something that can be rushed, corners cannot be cut, and perhaps this is one of the reasons that the taste reflects a personal experience with the food. When someone be it your mother or the chef behind closed doors, carefully constructs ingredients it is bound to have a little bit of something special and that reason makes it memorable.

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